Let’s welcome the world of organic wine enthusiasts! They are not only passionate about the same wine elements, but they also care strongly about the process and the methods used to produce the highest and healthiest collections of wine. Their enthusiasm and fondness motivates them to honor a quality of wine that contains a natural balance of grapes without the use of pesticides or sulfides. In other words, as Dave Woods, American Institute of Wine & Food member notes, organic winemakers are “good stewards of the land.” It seems that their love for wine is magically transmitted through every step of the winemaking process.
This subsequent growing interest in organic foods and beverages also motivated the federal government to develop regulations regarding the ingredients of an organic product. In order to maintain the integrity of organic wines, in December 2000, the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) National Organic Program released regulations that required products to be certified with a USDA organic seal. According to this program, regulations “respond to site-specific conditions by integrating cultural, biological and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity.” Emphasis upon terroir is given a whole new perspective.
While costly to obtain this seal, distinctions among sustainable, organic, and biodynamic wines are made to allow for more educated wine choices. It is equally important to note that as more vintners historically discovered variations in healthier growing methods, wine products reflected equally flavorful selections.These three distinctions are worthy of explanation. The first group of wines categorized as sustainable tends to avoid the use of man-made chemicals or artificial fertilizers. While identified as sustainable, there is also a focus on the eco-system, where the ultimate goal is to maintain a holistic and harmonious balance with nature. Remembering that sustainable is equated to foods that sustain, maintain, or improve the quality of one’s life, the natural goal of a sustainable winemaker is to respect the biological as well as the ecological systems of the natural environment. Therefore, another ecological consideration is maintained through the cultivation of plants that attract insects, such as wasps, praying mantis, and ladybugs, known to be beneficial to the health of the vines.
In essence, Carrie Strong (2009), feature writer for Chef’s Blade, explains it well. “Sustainable agriculture attempts to minimize environmental impacts and ensure economic viability and a safe, healthy workplace through the use of environmentally and economically sound production practices.” According to Fast Company (2009), ten wineries are rated as the top ten sustainable wines. They include Alma Rosa, French Rabbit, Frog's Leap, Benzinger, Demetria, Franzia, Grgich Hills, Bonny Doon, Cakebread, and Kendall Jackson. For more valuable knowledge on sustainable wine practices, visit The Hess Collection at www.hesscollection.com.
The next category of organic wines is probably the most familiar in name due to its emphasis upon the “organic” factor, i.e., fresh, non-chemically treated, and natural. Organic winemaking integrates the elements of sustainable winemaking with a focus upon an organic philosophy and distinctions among the end products. The upside is that organic winemakers pay attention to the “production, processing, distribution and sales” in order to maintain “organic integrity” (Organic Trade Association). A downside may the cost factor. As noted by PJWine.com, fine wine retailers, “for many winemakers, especially at large wineries, it isn't cost effective to farm organically, and far too many things can go wrong throughout the year that can easily destroy crops.”
It seems, though, that the winemakers are continually taking many issues into consideration not only for customer satisfaction, but also for cost effectiveness. If they choose to follow an organic path, they are given three options to follow. Noting these distinctions in regard to organic certification, wines may be 1. 100% organic or produced with grapes that are certified 100% organically grown and do not have any added sulfites, 2. organic or have at least 95% of their ingredients from certified organic sources and may contain a limited amount of sulfur dioxide, and 3. made with organic grapes or have at least 70% of their grapes from organic sources and may also contain sulfur.
Renee Robin, writing for WineBusiness.com, identifies another distinction related to organic wine labeling. According to Robin, the term "organic wine" can be used only when 100 percent of the grapes are certified organic and where no sulfites are added. A wine that contains only organic grapes but also uses sulphur dioxide, yeasts, bentonite or egg white gases in the winemaking process is not considered an "organic wine." These types of wines would be labeled “made from organically grown grapes." It makes sense, then, to read wine labels, if you are interested in these differences and want to experience an organic wine.
Upon further investigation, it was also interesting to read that while the objective of organic winemakers is to abstain from all chemical substances and sulfites, it is important to remember that sulfites are a natural byproduct of the fermentation process and that it is impossible for any wine to be completely free of sulfites. Wines that present as completely free of sulfites are considered to be an “an accident of nature.” The end product may contain naturally occurring sulfites, but the total sulfite level must be less than 20 parts per million in order to receive organic certification.
If you are interested in organic wine producers, you can investigate Badger Mountain Vineyard in Washington, Benziger Winery, Heller Estate, and Frog’s Leap in California, Crop Circle from Arizona, Amity Vineyards and Cooper Mountain in Oregon, The Organic Wine Company, importer of Organic French Wines, Organic Vintners, importers of international Organic Wines, Summerhill Pyramid Winery from Canada, Robinvale Organic Wines from Australia, Richmond Plains and Kawarau Estate from New Zealand and Nuova Cappeletta from Italy.
For more information on organic practices, visit Oregon Tilth at http://www.tilth.org/, which provides an excellent and informative site devoted to “biologically sound and socially equitable agriculture.” Of course, you can always participate in Sustainable Vine Wine Tours at http://www.sustainablevine.com/index.asp.
Adhering to a global view of ecological balance, biodynamic winemaking views the vineyard as a “living system” that is also self-sustaining. Organic and biodynamic farming assume a similar focus through the use of organically grown grapes and the elimination of pesticides, herbicides, chemical fertilizers or synthetic chemicals. It is quite obvious these vintners focus strongly on their relationship with the land they own. In further consideration, biodynamic winemakers consider their vineyards as an extension of biological cycles. While regarding the soil as necessary for plant growth, they also view it as a living organism to be respected and cared for. Recognizing that synthetic fertilizers or pesticides may poison the soil, their decision to eliminate these products ultimately promotes the health and longevity of vineyards. Therefore, these winemakers use a series of special preparations to enhance the life of the soil. Some biodynamic wines are Clos Martinet from Spain, Valli Unite from Italy, and Thierry Germain from France.
If reports are true about grapes being one of the most chemically sprayed fruits, this revelation may be one of the reasons for seeking an organic alternative to conventional wines. But, does this mean that it is time to forego non-organic wines? Absolutely not! Balance is the best plan to follow. It may mean that wine enthusiasts can now add sustainable, organic or biodynamic-made wines to their educated quest for the perfect wine. The “land stewards” will be proud to showcase their gems. One day, when you feel adventurous, buy a bottle of organic wine, taste test it for yourself, and just enjoy your life and your wine.
If you would like to reach me with your comments or ideas, please post one. My website for La Bella Festa will be coming shortly.
Originally published in SAVOR magazine
© March 2010
